Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Friday 17 January 2014

Cornwall: Caerthilian Cove to Gew-graze 24/8/1998****


 

Yellow Carn
 
Gew-graze
 
Western ramping funitory
We searched intensively for plants along this short length of coast, one of the most floriferous places in Britain.  At Caerthillian Cove we began searching for clovers on the north side of the valley (i.e. south-facing), where basic bastite serpentine replaces the earlier schist, without, however, finding the fabled classic spot where numerous rarities could be covered by a botanist’s hat!  Many of the rarities were over by then, but we did find long-headed or Lizard clover in seed, and similarly western clover.  We then walked on to Pentreath Beach, a steep climb down to sand and rocks at one end, large pebbles at the other.  Further along at Yellow Carn we found excellent botanical conditions.  The quarrying of serpentine here has left a huge sea-facing amphitheatre with flowers all the way down.  It was difficult to make progress, with a new flower at almost every step, but we did steel ourselves to stop for some lunch amid copious hairy greenweed, many pods and a few flowers of dyer’s greenweed, dodder, little white stars of spring sandwort, pale dog violet, toadflax-leaved StJohn’s-wort and other Lizard specialities.  Butterflies were enjoying the re-emergence of sunlight, along with swift-flying never-pausing oak eggar moths.  We also saw the ground beetle Harpalus tenebrosus, which is a Notable A red book species restricted to cliffs and dunes. 
      The descent to Kynance Cove is both steep and long, but well worthwhile, as the beach is breathtakingly beautiful, with huge dark polished rocks of tremolite serpentine set in a clear golden sand, deep blue sea on two sides, and the added piquancy of the Bellows blow-hole roaring away in one corner.  Naturally the beach was crowded with sun-bathers, who tended to drape their garish multi-coloured towels over the most photogenic rocks.  We climbed to the café for ice-creams before continuing along one more final stretch of coast.  This meant climbing the steep valley-side, covered in short turf and then following the cliff edge round to Gew-graze.  The turf here was colourful with Cornish heath and other flowers.  Some of the paths (and later inland on our return) were carpeted with chamomile throwing up its sweet scent as we trod upon it.  We saw a dark green fritillary and stonechats.  From Gew-graze we followed the stream back inland and walked across the heath, finally reaching Lizard Town by a path along the top of a field wall.  Along the lanes into the village were eastern gladiolus (an established garden escape), chives, three-cornered garlic and western and tall ramping fumitories.  We drove north that evening, anticipating our walk by a couple of days, to dine at the Helzephron Inn in Gunwalloe, taking frequent breaks in our meal to go outside and witness the deep red sunset over the sea.
Kynance Cove from Lizard Hotel
 
Dark green fritillary
 
Eastern gladiolus


VARIATIONS IN SERPENTINE ROCKS AT THE LIZARD

Asbestos serpentine
Bastite serpentine
Bastite serpentine
Chlorite serpentine
Chromite serpentine (Yellow Carn)
Haematite serpentine
Magnesian serpentine
Magnesian serpentine
Tremolite serpentine

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