Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Friday 17 January 2014

Cornwall: Porthallow to Coverack 20/8/1998


 

Great scallop, limpets & barnacles
 
Coverack Harbour
 
Cornish heath
We parked on the beach at Porthallow where all remnants of the party had been carefully removed.  We found a path up the southern cliff (not the official coast path).  This was quite steep for a while and led to a track down into a deserted quarry in the hornblende schist.  We passed a field of ostriches, which were very curious, probably hoping we had food for them.  In Porthkerris Bay, with a backdrop of the old quarry, divers were preparing to explore the many old wrecks along this coast.  We crossed the pebbles and found a stranded live great scallop, gaping but still able to snap its shells tight, which Val photographed before returning it to the sea.  We continued by a disused road behind a second quarry and by the ostriches again.  The farmer was showing a family an ostrich egg and he pointed out the best way to Porthoustock, which we could easily follow through a third quarry.  This route saved following the unpleasant official one that goes inland and follows roads.  At Porthoustock divers were again active alongside boats of local fishermen.  The beach was described as “Gateway to the Manacles”, the ship-wrecking rocks off the point.  We left hornblende-schist and entered gabbro.  The road out of the village was quite steep and we followed it past a tor called “Giant’s Quoits”.  These rocks had been moved from Manacle Point and re-assembled here 30 years before to prevent damage to this landmark.  We walked into the village of Rosenithon and down the valley to rejoin the coast-path, which passed a dairy farm and arrived at Godrevy Cove.  This had a stretch of soft grey sand above the pebbles of the foreshore.  Beach-head plants included Ray’s knotgrass and sea rocket, while the shingle above was populated by both ringed plover and dunlins.  At the end of the beach a track led into a working gabbro quarry.  We met the “blaster” who cuts the very hard gabbro out of the tall cliffs.  It is then crushed and carried by conveyor belt to the jetty to be loaded on to ships and transported for making roads.  This means of transport makes much sense, avoiding the narrow constricted roads of Cornwall.  We ate our lunch on the cliffs above the rock jetty, looking down on a beach deserted except for gulls and crows.  The descent from the quarry led to a wide grassy raised beach platform that was a mixture of old meadow and marshland full of flowers, such as the burgundy heads of greater burnet, the chocolate-lipped pink bells of Cornish heath, sneezewort, and the striking large yellow flowers of marsh ragwort.  Old cliffs at the back with tumbling rocks were also covered in plants.  The present-day beach ten feet below was mainly of large grey pebbles.  The raised beach made for an easy and delightful walk, at the end of which we had to climb the cliff again before descending into Coverack, a pretty fishing village with a small harbour at the end of a long front.
 
Giant’s Quoits
Pencra Head Gabbro Quarry

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