Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Friday 10 January 2014

Devon: Stoke Beach to Wembury 11/8/1996***


 

Orange mullein
 
 
 
Clematis tangutica Orange-peel clematis
We took the upper cliff path from Stoke through Centry Wood planted with sweet chestnuts along a wide level grassy way, once presumably a vehicular route, to Noss Mayo, with good views of the sea.  Hemp agrimony and buddleias attracted many butterflies.  After some rough heath and farmland we passed under an old coastguard lookout, where there was some thyme, sheepsbit and common centaury.  We passed below pasture and then arable fields of oats, flax and wheat.  In rough land below Warren Cottage grew a tall plant of orange mullein, with hemlock, teasel and garden catmint.  It had very pale, virtually white, flowers and many erect branches.  Among large greyish bushes of common gorse past flowering emerged lower greener bushes of western gorse just coming into flower and therefore quite distinct. 
      Around the corner of the River Yealm we entered Brakenill Plantation, cool and damp with rhododendrons and plenty of ferns.  A path to the left led us to Cellar Beach, with holidaymakers, fishermen and divers waiting for high tide, but we had to return to the main track to continue to Noss Mayo past tutsan, abundant great woodrush, wood spurge and an established group of bear’s-breech.  Here we went down a slipway to await the ferry to Warren Point.  A small boat with outboard motor and friendly ferryman soon turned up and we arranged for him to take us back afterwards, costing us just £2. 
      On the other side of the river it was a steep climb to another cliff path with good views of the Yealm and then out to sea to Great Mew Stone and a distant Eddystone Lighthouse.  We walked down to the crowded beach at Wembury, but a high tide covered its famous rock-pools.  We had ice-creams, took at look at the Marine Nature Reserve display, and returned to the ferry.  Walking up to Noss Mayo we happened on a regatta between that town and Newton Ferrers.  With the black-headed gulls we watched one race between two-man coxed rowing boats, with a background of stirring music and colourful bunting flapping and noisily cracking in the wind.  Along the walls of the waterfront were Clematis tangutica, opium poppy, purple toadflax and Indian balsam.  On the walk back to Stoke we saw a young bank vole.
 
 
 
River Yealm from Warren Point
 
 
 
 
Noss Mayo/Newton Ferrers regatta
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