Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Friday, 31 January 2014

Essex: Bradwell Waterside to Burnham-on-Crouch 6/7/2009


 

St Peter's Chapel
 
Hunchback cockle
 
Howe Outfall
 
Decorated gate
Bradwell Waterside is the riverside part of Bradwell-on-Sea, which is entirely inland! Perhaps it was once on the coast but now left high and dry by land reclamation.  We got yesterday’s A2B to pick us up just before 8am from the White Harte and take us to our start, as we would end up at Burnham.  The early start was because this 15 mile walk is along a remote piece of coast at the end of the Dengie (“den-jee”) Peninsula, passing through no settlements at all on the way and mostly well removed from any roads.  The way, fortunately, was not too difficult, with only a little long grass to negotiate.  Sometimes we walked on top of the embankment, especially where this was concreted (although there we got the full blast of the almost gale-force south-westerlies), sometimes below on the landward side, but the view was equally far from exhilarating, either featureless saltmarsh sward of mainly cord-grass with large swathes (sometimes like dwarf woodlands) of shrubby seablite, or equally featureless agricultural fields of wheat or lucerne.  The latter at least provided the appropriate prairie-like habitat to encourage large numbers of skylarks to enliven the walk with song.  Sometimes we could not see the end of some straight sections of embankment.  From the natural history point of view, despite the remoteness, this was one of our least interesting days.  The exceptions were at the start, especially where we walked in front of Bradwell Power Station at the point where the River Blackwater meets the sea.  Here a small beach of sand and shell-banks was formed, giving a mixture of dune and shingle vegetation, including yellow-horned poppy, sea kale, and sticky groundsel.  This also gave us the only shell records for the day such as the hunchback cockle.  A little later we reached England’s oldest church, St Peter’s Chapel, built around 600AD on the site of a Roman fort, some contours of which could still be seen.  This chapel is cared for by a little religious community that lives just behind a little wood near the chapel.  Below the chapel they have created a beautiful flower-meadow, where the deep blue tufted vetch mixed with yellow meadow vetchling, bladder campion, field scabious, musk mallow and knapweed.  Just before we got here the promised thunderstorms reached us and we were glad to shelter at the chapel.  Although only 2 hours after our 8.30 start, we decided to wait out some of the rain while having our first meal of pastries and fruit.  We resumed walking south along the embankment with only the occasional “outfall” punctuating the monotony.  Our next meal we took at 1.30pm near (about 1km from!) Bridgewick Farm, sitting in bright sunshine on a cleared margin of a wheat field, as elsewhere was all long grass.  When the saltmarsh beyond the sea-wall gave way to muddy sand, there were a couple of waders (turnstone, curlew) among the feeding gulls, but we saw few other waders.  In the inland creeks we occasionally saw little egret, avocet, coot and little grebe.  As we rounded the SE corner of the peninsula (Holliwell Point) we saw Foulness ahead and gradually entered the north bank of the River Crouch, where the embankment finally led us to Burnham, and walkways, first past the Royal Corinthian Yacht Club and then the Royal Burnham Yacht Club, and finally along the sea-front to the ferry point and our hotel.  On the whole walk we had seen only three people, fishermen who had separately reached the coast by car along track-ways.  A gate near Holliwell Point was totally draped with old shoes and other flotsam – we wondered who had bothered at this remote place.

 

Bradwell Waterside
 
St Peter's Chapel meadow
Bradwell Power Station
 
Sea view!

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