Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Thursday, 23 January 2014

North Devon: Combe Martin to Hunter's Inn 7/7/2002****


 

Bog asphodel
 
Round-leaved sundew
 
Dipper (RSPB)
From the car-park in Combe Martin, within Exmoor National Park, it was a long uphill walk past Little Hangman, and a more gradual slope up to Great Hangman summit and its cairn (318m).  After sheep pasture with few flowers, we eventually arrived at the true moorland, here on the acid Hangman Grits, for which Exmoor is renowned.  Below buzzards and peregrines circling in the sky, there was bilberry in abundance among heather, purple moor-grass and moor sedge, with cross-leaved heath in the wetter parts.  We even came across one good sphagnum bog with bog asphodel, heath spotted orchids and round-leaved sundew.  The cliffs were very high and descended steeply, so we had to take a long detour inland to negotiate Sherrycombe valley, rising again to the moors of Holdstone Down.  Here a minor road came close to the coast, but the path remained a couple of hundred metres away, closer to the cliffs.  Often the steep valleys here were well-wooded.  That at Sherrycombe had planted beech – their leaves scorched brown by the winds; more at home were the alders and hawthorns.  Despite the overcast weather, ringlets were flying over the bracken near the stream.  We continued parallel to the coast, keeping a reasonably even height along the contours around East Cleave, and then striking south along Heddon Valley before being able to descend the steep, scree-scarred slopes to the bottom.  There were extensive sessile oakwoods and more varied vegetation, including many ferns, such as hay-scented.  Sunlight brought out lizards and high brown fritillaries.  The walk through bracken brought its liabilities – we had to remove sheep-ticks from ourselves afterwards.  We then walked down to Heddon’s Mouth, a boulder-strewn cove, with a restored circular lime kiln.  We caught brief glimpses of a dipper and grey wagtails on the wild stream, as we walked back up as far as Hunter’s Inn, where we were able to get refreshments and phone for a taxi back to Combe Martin.  Swifts flew overhead, while chaffinches and pied wagtails competed for crumbs among the pub tables in the courtyard.
Hunter’s Inn
Approaching Heddon Valley
 
Heddon Valley
 
Heddon’s Mouth

 

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