Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Thursday, 23 January 2014

North Devon: Saunton Sands Hotel to Mortehoe 3/7/2002****

 
 
 
Baggy Point
 
 
Morte Bay
 
 
Bell heather
 
We started at Saunton Sands Hotel on the edge of the dunes of Braunton Burrows, where pyramidal orchids and viper’s bugloss were flowering.  Our route lay west, avoiding the road by taking a grassy path through fields close to the cliff edge, where there were musk thistles and plenty of Yorkshire fog and rye.  The path ended at a gully and we had to climb out on to the road over a wall, crossing a patch of short turf full of wild thyme and common centaury.  We had to continue along this road until a path again diverged to the cliff edge near the headland that went round to Croyde, where we crossed the sand while surfers played in the sea.  Last night we had eaten here at The Thatch, popular with holiday camp families and very busy, a ‘chips with everything’ large pub.  At the other side of Croyde Bay we had to climb back to the road before a path again led to the cliff-edge, entering National Trust property with well-tended paths.  We had good views of rocky shore below, while there was a good heath vegetation all the way to Baggy Point, with colourful cat’s-ear and bell heather.  Stonechats and linnets were frequent.  It was a much steeper cliff on the northern side of this headland as we walked east to Morte Bay with a 2-mile stretch of sand.  At the south end we found a sheltered spot on the beach for lunch, behind a stack of grey shale rocks, out of a persistent sea-wind.  The walk along the beach afterwards produced a good haul of shells, although the sandy cliffs at the back were denuded. The majority of shells were “toenails” of broken Mactra stultorum, but there were also Moerella donacina and uncommon Janthina pallida.  Again there were surfers, mostly crowded at the northern end near Woolacombe along with other holiday-makers.  Here were a few dune plants like sea rocket, sea spurge, sand couch, marram and burnet rose.  Rising up the low cliff again we had to walk near the road above Barricane Beach.  This was good for shell sand and produced Epitonium clathratulum (SW only), Mangelia coractata, and the uncommon Adriatic mussel Modiolus donacina.  
      We returned to National Trust cliff pasture around Morte Point.  A pond had tadpoles and whirligig beetles.  Along the cliff there was much dodder on the gorse, both elegant and trailing St. John’s-worts, and bitter vetch.  We saw a gannet fly past below and a pair of oystercatchers on the shore rocks made their presence obvious by loud calls.  There was also a juvenile wheatear silhouetted on top of the gorse.  This was the “wildest” part of the journey today, but tamer than the Cornwall cliff heaths.  We crossed the deep valley from Mortehoe village and continued to the start of Rockham Beach, doubling back on a higher path that followed the other side of the valley to Mortehoe, arriving at the road by Rockham Bay Hotel.  It was only a short walk down to the centre of the village, where we were staying at the Smugglers Rest pub.  We had ice creams beside a café on the main square, below the church and another pub, the Ship Aground, among colourful displays of flowers around the village.
 
 
Burnet rose
 
 
 
Dodder

 
Epitonium clathratulum
 
Modiolus adriaticus



Mangelia coarctata
 
Moerella donacina

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