River
Wye from Bigsweir
Approaching
Redbrook
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This section
was easy to follow and we enjoyed beautiful views, like the Wye at Bigsweir and
the panorama of Monmouth lying below the National Trust area at Kymin. Much of the way was in woodland with much small-leaved lime and, more rarely,
wild service tree. At Wyeseal Wood occurred
plants like wood millet, great woodrush, and hard fern we had not noticed
yesterday. The dyke here was a
relatively simple embankment following the contours at the top of the wood,
where old layered and coppiced trees helped to enforce the barrier. In open fields at Coxbury Farm there were more
superb old limes following the line of the dyke, although there were notices
of a proposal to re-route the path away from the dyke here. This included a section in Kinwood Nature
Reserve where the flora was particularly good, with many old yews, spurge
laurel, early purple orchid, helleborines, nuthatches, and sulphur polypore
brackets on the old oaks. [We formally
objected to the proposals, but this only contributed a delay to the
inevitable installation of the diversion.]
The walking here was particularly enjoyable, mostly on top of the
dyke, with no noise obtrusions at all except the welcome one of continual
birdsong. We descended at lunchtime
into Redbrook where there were several pubs serving food and drink. Following quiet back alleys above the main
street meant we missed the start of the Wye Valley
path that would have been the easier way into Monmouth. Instead we ascended steadily to 800ft for
the next 3 km. We took a lunch break
just after the farm past Cockshoot Ash Barn, where we found a seat on a
useful mossy rock under a shady oak, eating Welsh cakes made at our hotel
(Whitebrook Inn). At the highest point
was a little National Trust reserve, The Kymin, that included a Naval Temple and a small tower erected to
commemorate British naval victories. It was a steady
descent to the Wye, crossing the river and the A40 into town by 3pm. This gave us plenty of time to visit the
Information Bureau, the castle and shops and have a snack at a little café. We walked down the main street to the famous
Monnow Bridge, over the river of the same
name, with brown trout swimming beneath.
The Monnow here runs into the Wye.
Near the bridge was a wonderful millennial sculpture in the shape of a
round table of ceramic tiles with embossed scenes from Monmouth’s history
from Roman times. The bus terminus
near the bridge afforded us a journey right back to Bigsweir Bridge
where we had started.
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Small-leaved
lime
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Monmouth
from The Kymin
View
from near Hendre
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