Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Thursday, 23 January 2014

Sussex: Newhaven to Seven Sisters 11/7/2001****

 
Clustered bellflower
 
Summer chafer about to fly
From Newhaven station we followed streets parallel to the east bank of the Ouse, alongside the docks railway line, the old dockyards and a ferry terminal now apparently disused.  We crossed the railway on the Vanguard Way and returned to the mouth of the Ouse through a wasteland of disused rail tracks and ruined factories.  The shore was shingle, dominated, as so often along this coast, by sea kale, so we walked along the firm track at the top of the beach to Seaford.  The coast faces southwest and catches the full force of the gales, making walking arduous.  Birds were having a hard time controlling their flight.  Many chose to fly close to the ground and crouch down flat when they landed.  They included ringed plover and wheatear.  There was a good promenade along Seaford front, with a Martello Tower at the east end, now a museum.  We went down to the beach at the far jetty.  Foam was scudding off the sea and across the sand in the gale. 
      The chalk cliffs started again and there were nesting fulmars and herring gulls.  We climbed to the cliff-top but the force of the wind made it impossible to stand near the edge and we had to retreat inland through the golf course to round Seaford Head. We emerged on the coast again just before Hope Gap, where we could descend to the beach and find shelter under the cliffs for lunch, with a beautiful view of the billowing sea and the Seven Sisters.  The tide was too high however, to carry on along the shore and we had to resume the cliff path.  The cliff-top turf had chalk grassland plants we saw nowhere else along the coast – clustered bellflower, bastard toadflax, and very dwarfed moon carrot.  We descended again where the wide Cuckmere River enters the sea.  With no way across except wading at low tide, we had to take the path north beside the river as far as the main road bridge.  Several little egrets were using the brooks that traversed the river floodplain.   
      In a few hundred metres we reached the Visitor Centre for Seven Sisters Country Park.  We had a warming coffee and then went to catch a bus back to Newhaven.  The bus stop was on a protected roadside verge where we could examine plants of red star thistle and see summer chafers Amphimallon solstitialis.  Later we drove a short way to visit Virginia Woolf’s residence Monks House in Rodmill village.  It is a low, long house in a large garden and is filled with paintings and painted furniture by Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant.  We drove to Brighton again for dinner at One Paston Place.
Bastard toadflax
 
Moon carrot
 
 
 
 
 
Seaford Beach and Head
 
 
 
Red star thistle
 
 
Seven Sisters from Hope Gap
 
Monks House, Rodmill
 

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