Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Friday, 31 January 2014

Yorkshire: Flamborough to Barmston 20/6/2007****


 

Stray pigeon
 
Sculpture trail
 
Thrift
 
Littoraria angulifera
We parked at North Landing to save a mile’s walk from the village.  The weather was warm and sunny for a change, and gave us a better chance to see the birds including plenty of puffins, as well as all the sea-birds from yesterday except gannet.  A stray homing pigeon, perhaps caught in yesterday’s weather, looked lost on the steps down the cliff and allowed a very close approach.  A “gannet” wood sculpture marked the cliff-edge, although the thick-set neck made it look more like a penguin!  We walked slowly along the north shore to Flamborough Head with its lighthouse.  In several spots there were more colonies of northern marsh orchids on the cliffs.  For the first time thrift also started appearing frequently and we even found the alien bur forgetmenot.  After this the scenery changed, with few cliff-nesting birds on the south side, although there were flocks of juvenile herring and lesser black-backed gulls on the shore and the occasional oystercatcher.  The path was less well marked and rather narrow, bordered by crops of barley and rape, and sodden by last night’s heavy downpour that created puddles forcing us off the path.  When we reached South Landing we did not go straight down to the beach but took (by fortunate mistake) a detour through a small woodland mainly of sycamore where there was a sculpture trail, with such exhibits as a huge rope nest with gigantic eggs, a spectral white mermaid among the dark trees, and a donkey with basket of coal and basket of fish to represent a 1930 wreck of a ship carrying coal.  (It had kept the locals stocked with fuel for several months!)  The trail ended in a picnic site and car park and a road leading down to South Landing with its lifeboat station.  From here we could ascend the cliff-top again and continue to Danes Dyke, where we entered another sycamore wood in a steep valley, from the bottom of which we decided to take the beach, the tide being out.  The cliffs were still of chalk, though much lower than the Head, and there were boulders and platforms of chalk among the sand, but we gained Bridlington North Sands without too much difficulty.  We walked to the centre of Bridlington.  We passed piles of “cars” for going on a large wheel that had just been erected to become Bridlington’s “Eye”.  This was completed the next day and was a somewhat celebrated local event.  We found a café for a late lunch and returned to the coast again at the harbour, where boats lay on thick grey gooey mud, and descended a ramp to South Sands.  We now walked continually on the beach for several miles under holiday camps, caravan parks and low sandstone cliffs.  The shelling improved as went along and included wreckage from the night’s storms, such as masses of pipefish, swimming crabs, goosefoot starfish and the occasional large fish like red snapper and sea bass.  We also picked up a recently dead Great Pond Snail and a Littoraria angulifera. (This is a mangrove snail from Florida, the Caribbean and the Pacific.  It seems unlikely to have arrived by natural means, but why someone should discard it here is another puzzle.)  The rains had also swollen the normally little streams that came down to the beach (hence the pond snail), making them wide torrents that were difficult to cross.  We went as far as Barmston, a small village set back from the coast, with a large holiday park on top of the cliffs.  There was no way up and we had to return to where the cliffs descended and there was a path into the caravan area.  We went through the park to the road on the far side and phoned for a taxi back to our car.  We walked from our B&B 300m to the Seabirds pub in the evening, where the staff members were friendly and the food quite good.

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