Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Tuesday, 4 February 2014

Kent: Deal to Dover 30/5/2010***


 

 
Deal front
 
 
White Cliffs of Dover
 
 
Approaching St Margarets at Cliffe
 
From Deal station the main street led down to the front and Deal Castle.  A tarmac path and cycleway continued above the shingle beach.  The shingle flora was dominated by red valerian and clumps of evergreen oak, although a line of sea kale survived along the ridge nearest the sea where no other plants would grow.  We only saw a couple of plants of yellow horned poppy south past Walmer, where there was another castle.  South of Walmer a line of houses abuts the shingle shore and here were abundant alien plants like blue globe-thistle and paths from each house, using the shingle as a kind of front garden – it was very colourful with flowers.  At the end of the houses the path along the shingle stopped and there was a triangular strip of grassland on shingle signed as a nature reserve.  Here again almost all the plants were aliens, but they included three stonecrops – biting, white and rock; star-of-Bethlehem; and hairy garlic just opening.  Then the White Cliffs of Dover started and we had to walk up beside the road.  The cliff-top grassland was full of chalk plants – with especially beautiful displays of bright pink sainfoin and bright yellow horseshoe vetch contrasting with blue common milkwort and white Nottingham catchfly.  There was also kidney vetch and carline thistle.  (We tried walking along the bottom of the cliffs, as there was a permissive path where there had once been a MoD rifle range, but there was no exit at the southern end and we had to return. Nevertheless, it was a good chance to see the tall white chalk cliffs from below, with lots of wild cabbage and rock samphire, while fulmar, jackdaw, feral pigeon and house martin nested in the crevices.)  The wild cabbage was also common all over the cliff-top grassland and later there were large patches of gladdon (stinking iris).  After passing a war memorial we descended into the gap occupied by St Margaret’s at Cliffe, with a lot of cars visiting the little harbour.  We had to continue up the winding road past the Pines organic garden and steeply up to the cliff top again at South Foreland.  Here a group of houses blocked the way and we had to walk round them, but could access the cliffs again by a path beside the lighthouse, where there were a lot of visitors.  We used the chance of one of the seats here in the shelter of the building to have our lunch out of the cold wind.  The cliff just past here had a good amount of rock-rose as well as the other plants.  While we could have walked inland on the level when we got to the gap at Langdon Hole we descended to the bottom and then up the very steep path on the other side.  There were lots of lackey moth caterpillars attacking the shrubs here.  Quite a few whitethroats were singing on the tops of bushes.  We were now above the ferry port at Dover, hearing the loudspeaker announcements loud and clear while still enjoying a wealth of chalk grassland flowers.  We walked at an intermediate height close to the chalk cliff, along a wide platform with rock above and below.  This was even more flowery and we had our first orchids, early spider and common spotted.  Among the common blues and occasional speckled wood and orange-tip we caught a glimpse of a dingy skipper.  The path was well marked but eventually got difficult through thick scrub and we returned to a side path to a higher level, along which there were lots of early spider orchid.  We unfortunately had to descend from this scenic bit of countryside with flowers and views of chalk cliffs against blue sea, to the edge of the huge harbour, where major ferries were coming in continually and roads were busy with heavy traffic.  We walked briefly by the harbour to where the road rose towards Dover Priory station.  We were back in Deal in less than 20 minutes!  We drove back to our hotel – Wallet’s Court, West Cliffe, just outside St Margaret’s at Cliffe.

 

Wild cabbage on cliffs
 
Dingy skipper
 
Early spider orchid
 
Sainfoin
 
Nottingham catchfly
Horseshoe vetch
 
Common spotted orchid

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