Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Tuesday, 4 February 2014

Kent: Faversham to Swalecliffe 25/5/2010****


 

From top, goatsbeard, hybrid and salsify
 
 
Tankerton
 
The path up the east bank of Faversham Creek was obscured by boatyards and unsigned, so we had to find our way round vehicles and equipment as best we could.  As we reached more open country there was wasteland packed with hog’s fennel, and this plant continued along this side of the creek, like the west bank, until nearly the end.  Also plentiful along the path were goat’s beard (yellow) and its close relative salsify (purple), both open widely in the early morning, even with a cloudy sky.  With them were a few plants with yellow centres and purple extremities to the petals, hybrids between the two and possibly more beautiful than either.  We rounded Nagden Marshes and finally reached The Swale as it was widening into open sea beyond Sheppey.  The path follows a sea-wall, under which, on the landward side, cut-leaved crane’s-bill was prolific in the shelter, joined here and there by grass vetchling.  Out to sea was a shingle bank, the main part of the South Bank of the Swale Nature Reserve, where we could make out little terns returning to their nests with food.  Other birds here were mainly black-headed gulls, oystercatchers and shelduck.  On the embankment, however, we spotted a bird singing on a hawthorn bush.  Raising the binoculars we found it to be a whitethroat, but just behind it on top of the same bush rested a yellow wagtail.  Several more were seen just afterwards along the path.  We descended to the slight inlet at the beginning of Graveney Marshes.  In the sheltered land below the embankment we found a few butterflies, including brown argus.  Then we were at the Sportsman pub, just opening at 12 noon, so we could get a hot coffee in their warm conservatory as relief from a stiff east wind.  We then proceeded along what was genuine seaside beach at long last, approaching Seasalter.  We were recording shingle plants like sea kale and yellow horned poppy.  In one place with low turf we found several kinds of medick, not just the usual spotted medick, but also the casual tattered medick, the rare bur medick, and lucerne.  We were able to continue in front of Seasalter, despite efforts by some houses to lay claim to the beach as “private”: we had waited long for the seaside and were not going to lose the chance now!  We heard a train pass as the railway came in close to the coast, just above the beach.  It was similar from here to Whitstable, although there was more sea-wall to alleviate walking on shingle.  We rounded the harbour, with its sea-food stalls and the Whitstable Oyster Company before getting back to the beach at the beginning of Tankerton.  Here, under some moored yachts, we found another alien medick, in this case the particularly rare shore medick.  Grassy banks above in one place had a large patch of Bithynian vetch being fed upon by many browntail moth caterpillars.  Further east the grassland got wilder and we suddenly found huge numbers of hog’s fennel again.  A footpath led us inland to Swalecliffe church, over a dyke from which we again heard the croaking of marsh frogs.  From the church a road led down through housing to Chestfield and Swalecliffe Station.  We spent the night at Macknade Manor, with its famed restaurant, Read’s.
 
Shore medick
 
 
 
Browntail moth caterpillars on Bithynian vetch

 

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