Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Tuesday, 26 November 2013

Dorset 4/8/1992: Isle of Portland*


 

Chalkhill blue
 

Herring gull chick on cliff
We took the cliff-top walk around the island, which is a Dorset Wildlife Trust reserve, from Verne Yeats car park.  The “isle”, actually peninsula, is an odd mixture of unprepossessing government buildings (prison, borstal, dockyard, underwater weapons establishment, coastguards, MOD property) with barbed-wire-topped perimeter fences, and semi-natural habitats with plenty of natural history interest.  The Portland limestone quarries had good rough calcareous vegetation and plenty of common and chalkhill blues, sheltered from the sharp wind.  It was quiet except the southernmost tip (Portland Bill) where holiday-makers congregated around the beach huts, lighthouse and tea caravans.  A pub here, The Pulpit, served substantial lunches and real ale.  The best places for natural history were in the central third.  Plants included autumn gentian, Portland spurge (first identified here in 1711), squinancywort, yellowwort, golden and rock samphire, and common spotted orchids.
     We saw glow-worms and nesting herring gulls on the western cliffs.  There is a fossil forest of stromatolites like that at Lulworth, but the shore is rocky and almost entirely inaccessible.
     One of the most notable features was the large disused quarry at Verne Yeats converted into a sculpture park, with winding stairs, standing stones, and carved rocks, all blending into the rocky scenery, a celebration of Portland stone and its natural fossil “sculptures”.  Walls incorporate ammonites, calcitic accretions and fossil trees, and remains of old quarrymen’s art can be seen.
 

Verne Yeats Sculpture Park
 
 
 

Portland spurge
 

West Cliff

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