Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Thursday 5 December 2013

Dorset 5/8/1992: Chesil Beach - Portland to Abbotsbury*

St Catherine’s Chapel & Chesil Beach (lynchets in foreground)


 
Chesil Beach, a huge 8-mile-long bank of shingle, stretches from Portland to Bridport.  The tidal flats of The Fleet lagoon prevented us leaving the bank until we reached Abbotsbury.  The ridge is bleak and desert-like, with a fierce wind from the sea whose large breakers continually pounded.  This walk was hard, our legs tired from the shifting stones and our feet bruised by the hard pebbles.  The first half was a little easier because there was firm compacted shingle at the Fleet’s edge, but the second half was physically challenging.  The only gradual change was from larger pebbles at the Portland end to finer shingle further west. 
     Despite the apparent desolation there was a surprising amount of wildlife.  Gulls and terns had nested, flocks of skylarks and finches fed on thistles, and there was even a colony of hares.  Patches of vegetation occur all along the leeward side with the saltmarsh communities of the Fleet, edged by a scrub of shrubby seablite at its only location on the south coast.  Sea campion dominated, but there was also the much rarer sea kale and sea pea, as well as many commoner flowers, among which sea mayweed, thrift, stonecrop, kidney vetch, sea spurge, yellow horned-poppy and curled dock were prominent.  Various ducks and waders used the sheltered Fleet, including shelduck and mute swans, especially at the far end near the Abbotsbury Swannery. 
     Even when we got on to tarmac anticipating some relief we could still feel the interminable pebbles beneath our soles.  On shaky legs and with a horror of stepping on even the smallest stone we finally walked up to Abbotsbury itself through the sub-tropical gardens, with the C14th St Catherine’s Chapel prominent on the hill above.
 

Sea mayweed
 

Mute swan

Walking the Fleet side of Chesil Beach

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