Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Tuesday, 21 January 2014

Cornwall: Pengirt Cove to Port Gaverne 13/7/2000


 

Lundy Hole
 
Golden samphire
 
We continued the cliff-top walk through gorse and old lead workings, with haymaking in the fields behind.  The slates here are interspersed with blocks of igneous rock, some having been quarried once.  Honeysuckle scented the air.  A deep sheltered valley with pine trees, willow and blackthorn scrub led to Lundy Hole, a rock arch over a short sea inlet.  Lundy Bay is strewn with large boulders, covered in limpets, winkles and top shells like Monodonta lineata, and difficult to negotiate to reach patches of sand.  Neighbouring Epphaven Cove is similar with several caves in the cliffs popular with nesting fulmars.  A steep climb to Trevan Point followed, and to Gilson’s Cove, narrow and inaccessible, with old mine shafts at the top.  Someone was flying a kite in the wind.  Just before Doyden Point, large Doyden House was conspicuous, followed by the small inhabited Gothic folly of Doyden Castle (white-edged windows emphasised by surrounding dark stone).  From here you can see Port Quin down a deep narrow valley, but to get there involved a walk around a side valley beneath the House.  The cliffs had golden samphire, spring squill and dyers greenweed.  The cove itself, once reached, was again very rocky with some sand and caves inhabited by rock doves.  Port Quin was once a mining village.  It became deserted and the remaining cottages are now mostly National Trust holiday homes.  There were no facilities here (or anywhere else on today’s walk).  After we left NT land we noticed the paths were more unkempt.  A steep climb led to Kellan Head, and, beyond, a broken coastline rises and falls, making for a strenuous walk.  It is very isolated from the road and we passed few other walkers.  When we got to Varley Head we could clearly see the small town of Port Isaac on the next headland but one, but the descent into Pinehaven was very steep, the path going down vertically by means of hundreds of steps.  After a more gradual climb to Lobber Point it was coasting the remaining way to Port Isaac.  Entering we passed a big clump of pencilled cranesbill.  The car-park is on the shingle beach of the small cove and we rested at the Slipway Hotel for afternoon coffee and Cornish cream tea.  A short walk round the next headland led to the road into Port Gaverne, where we were staying at Port Gaverne Inn, right beside the coast path.  After dinner we took a short walk to the beach and up the steps on the east side, previously inaccessible because of the tide, to a path along a gully that looked as though it was the result of a landslip.  The path led to Main Head and a view of Castle Rock across a narrow channel of sea.
Monodonta lineata
 
Fulmars
 
Port Isaac
 
Port Isaac beach car-park

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