Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Tuesday, 21 January 2014

Cornwall: Port Gaverne to Tintagel 14/7/2000**


 

 
Crookroyal Rock, view towards Tintagel
 
 
Quarry remains, Dennis Point
The wind had got up in the night – in the words of one local we passed “Wild be dunnit?”  Foam was again being blown over the cliff tops as we took the path beside the hotel to Headlands Hotel at the top.  Here along the cliffs of Port Isaac Bay we saw burnet rose in fruit.  Over Bounds Cliff the path was overgrown but we found quicker passage across a newly mown hayfield.  In other places corn was planted so close to the cliff it left only six inches in which to walk.  An occasional bank or blackthorn hedge afforded shelter but also limited the view.  Linnets and stonechats enjoyed the gorsy areas.  It was slow progress, every valley involving a steep descent and ascent.  Out of Barrett Zorn it was particularly difficult because there were no steps and the path was loose shale.  The cliffs here showed long-term erosion.  On the north side of the cove was an entrance to a tunnel down to the beach that no longer appeared usable.  We would certainly not want to venture in too far without a torch.  Remains of old mineshafts abound. Beyond the old quarries we passed Crookroyal Rock and had a view of Tintagel.  Along one fast-flowing stream was a still pool with hundreds of well-developed leggy tadpoles. 
      At Tregardock Beach the cliffs slope down rather than falling sheer and we could reach the beach by a footpath ending in slippery steps among the rocks at the bottom.  On the way down Val caught a rose chafer and carried it to show me as I stood beside a hogweed umbel where another was feeding.  We added the second beetle and it immediately sprang up and started mating with the first.  So we did our bit to ensure the survival of the species.  The beach was strewn with flotsam and jetsam and the tide seemed to reach high up the rocks.  It was coming in quite quickly, so we went halfway back up the cliff to hide in a grassy hollow for our lunch.  Kestrels and a buzzard were active in blustery air.  The path passed through good examples of cliff heath, with dyers greenweed and spring squill, and the moorland ant Formica lemani.  This was followed by long steep steps to Trebarwith Bay where the tide was in, hiding the sand.  Holidaymakers were forced to sit on the rocks.  This was the first place today where there was road access and so there were facilities, including water and ice-cream.  A steep climb out of the bay led to an easy path to Tintagel, past large disused quarries that have quite reshaped the cliffs.  The heath vegetation reappeared and we found a large stand of chives on Glebe Cliff.  We then turned off along the road to Tintagel Church and into town.
 
 
 
 
 
Tregardock Beach
 
 
 
 
Chives on Glebe Cliff

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