Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Friday, 17 January 2014

Cornwall: Penzance to Lamorna Cove 6/6/1999***


 

Greater quaking-grass
 
Lesser birdsfoot trefoil
 
Italian lords & ladies
From the bus station we walked past the docks and round the headland.  As it was high tide, we walked along the promenade between the shore and lines of hotels and an inventive children’s playground.  We eventually got down on the shingle beach, which had some sea rocket and hoary cress at the top.  It was very quiet, being Sunday morning, and very serious bowls matches were proceeding among impeccably white-and-navy-dressed men and women.  Penzance runs into Newlyn where there is no seafront access because of the large fishing harbour and docks.  Newlyn is an unassuming old-fashioned place with narrow passages running up the steep hill reminiscent of Brixham.  A group of painters were setting up their easels by an old section of the harbour and framing views using cards with square holes.  Here we spotted some greater quaking-grass beside a lane, and this plant persisted beside the roads all the way to Lamorna. Some wasteland bordering the sea below the road, apparently the remains of an industrial railway, also had the quaking-grass and marshy areas with brooklime.  By the road was some clover broomrape and we saw an uncommon robberfly Dioctria baumhaueri.
      It was almost continuous housing between Newlyn and Mousehole except for Penlee Quarry, which was still being worked, although an older part had become a caravan site.  Again we were forced to follow roads, seeing more alien plants like the day-lily Hemerocallis fulva and giant viper’s bugloss.  At Mousehole there was a rocky beach with nasturtiums at the top, but we had to return to the roads to get to the harbour, where wild celery grew in places on the walls and there was an unusually sandy beach.  We stopped for lunch at The Ship by the harbour before venturing along the rocky shore again, but still could not get far without returning to the streets, with housing between us and the coast.  The path to Lamorna ran above fields, overgrown with grass, shrubs and bracken.  As we reached Kemyel Crease Nature Reserve we heard a cuckoo calling.  This reserve was formerly a Monterey pine plantation and contains plants like Italian arum.  After this there was more open cliff vegetation climaxing at Carn Du headland, with spring squill and both lesser and hairy birdsfoot trefoils, while we could hear linnets among the gorse.  We were apparently walking on granite.  Lamorna Cove was a pile of boulders with a tiny sandy beach.  We bought ice-creams and walked up a shady wooded valley to get to Mousehole and get the bus back from there.  Our B&B Lombard House is on Regent Terrace in Penzance, with good views over Mount’s Bay.  We drank Cornish ales with our pub food at the Turks Head.
Bowls match, Penzance, Sunday morning
 
Monterey pine

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