Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Tuesday, 21 January 2014

Cornwall: Tintagel to Boscastle 15/7/2000


 

 
 
 
Rocky Valley
 
Distorted slates
We started at the Church of St Materiana, where there are graves of a 14-year-old Italian sailor drowned around 1900 and an C18th person killed by lightning – “rising by fire to heaven”.  We followed the cliff to Tintagel Head, where we paid to enter the English Heritage ruins of the famous C13th castle, ancient monastery and C6th fortifications.  The castle ruins are made more Gothic, Gormenghast-like, by sea-air weathering.  Cliff erosion has cast some of the ruins into the sea.  The site is well-managed, as it has to cope with crowds of foreign tourists.  The vegetation was heavily trampled, but rock sea-lavender survived on the cliff.  The conditions suited profuse growth of haresfoot clover here and on subsequent well-visited headlands today.  We entered the site by a narrow land-bridge and a steep climb up – making the castle more easily defended.  Kestrels hovered around oblivious to the constant stream of people.  On the north side of the land-bridge a stream comes down to a small shingle bay by a waterfall, above which is a tangle of Japanese knotweed and montbretia, alien species which also occurred in Rocky Valley further along.  As we continued along the cliffs there were several peregrines soaring, one mobbed by kestrels.  Were they all after the shrews we glimpsed here?  These cliffs are good for seabirds and at Willapark we saw shags and a group of six auks, guillemot or razorbill, flying far out over the ocean.  One meadow was striking purple and gold from red clover and common cat’s-ear.  A stepped path led into Bossiney Cove where a narrow beach is bounded by high cliffs, the haunt of sand martins, fulmars and rock doves.  Warm from the shelter of the cove we were confronted by the cold wind when we regained the top, even though today was predominantly sunny.  We found a seat for lunch overlooking Bossiney and Benoath Coves, a splendid view.  After this we made the descent into Rocky Valley where a substantial stream gushed down between ragged walls of rock.  At Firebeacon Hill we spotted a peregrine on its nest underneath a rocky overhang high on the cliff.  After more valleys we finally ascended Willapark and looked across Boscastle Harbour.  A cove on the south side, Western Blackapit, has very black rock.  We had been walking on slate all day, many considerably distorted and altered by volcanism. An unusual long right-angled inlet culminates in Boscastle Harbour, the village rising from there up the valley.  From Willapark we could see the remains of medieval strip farming (“stitches”) in the lines of Forrabury Common.  We arrived in the village just in time to catch our bus, but it looked like an interesting village to have explored.  We stayed and dined in Tintagel at Ye Olde Malthouse.
 
Tintagel Castle ruins
 
 
Common shrew
 
 
Haresfoot clover

 

 

Tintagel Castle
 
Forrabury Stitches


Bossinney Cove


 

 
 
 
 
 
BOSCASTLE
 
 

 

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