Introduction


When we started walking the coast of England we had no intention that this would become a major lifetime project. Having to make a last-minute arrangement for our summer holiday in 1987, we said "Let's go to the nearest piece of coast and see how far we can walk along it." It turned out well and we started adding further stretches of coast, initially once every two years, but soon annually, or even twice a year.

We had always enjoyed the coast - there is something refreshingly "edgy" about having the sea always at our side, and one of us was into marine molluscs. We also enjoyed long-distance walking and had long been involved in general natural history recording. This project enabled us to combine all three interests.

You soon discover when embarking on a project like this that you need a few rules, which evolve from the first experiences. Our main rule was that we should walk as close to the coast as possible, which meant beach-walking whenever we could (unlike the official coast paths that largely remain above shore, recognising that at high tides the beach may be inaccessible). The route should also be capable of being a continuous walk, so that when we came to an unfordable river we walked inland along its banks to the first place at which we could cross, whether a bridge or a ferry.

We only carried light packs, so that at the end of each day's walk we had the problem of getting back to our car where we started. Initially we walked back, but soon realised we would be walking the coast twice this way! We used public transport whenever this was available - buses or trains, sometimes adjusting our start and finish points to make this easier. Failing this - and it was often not possible - we would phone for a taxi (an increasingly costly option over the years). Having our car with us gave us more freedom as to where we could stay at night - and after a day walking and only light food we were usually ready for being spoiled by a good meal and a comfortable bed! Even so, we stayed on the coast itself whenever there was a decent option.

Each walk was made for enjoyment, it was not a route-march to see how quickly we could get it finished. We therefore took it gently at times when passing through pleasant scenery or where there were many plants or creatures to record.

In terms of biological recording, we systematically noted every bird, butterfly, creature or sea-shell that we came across, sometimes spending time searching for the shells. We could not record every plant in the same way - there are too many common ones - so we were more selective, noting all coastal plants and any others that were not run-of-the-mill.

In our daily posts, edited from our original diaries, we include a star-rating from no star to **** according to our subjective estimate as to how special that day was from the point of view of natural history. This score (and our daily records) will, however, have been affected by the weather - it is difficult to appreciate the environment fully, for instance, in torrential rain, and there are many more butterflies and other insects to be seen in warm sunshine!

A summary of all our natural history records on the walk can be found using this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1LLGD55lKRHYXd1SGU1QndrcUU/edit?usp=sharing





Tuesday, 21 January 2014

Devon: Instow to Braunton 24/7/2000***


 

Instow Beach with Appledore beyond
 
Edible cockle
 
Canada geese on River Taw
We started at the other end of the ferry crossing at the quay in Instow, walking up the large sandy beach dominated by cockles, looking back to Appledore across the River Torridge.  At the head of the beach are dunes with little stable grassland but a good variety of plants, if not quite as good as Northam Burrows.  The beach was dominated by army practice manoeuvres with amphibious vehicles.  This meant that it was difficult to find whole shells.  We followed the coast round into the Taw estuary at the head of the saltmarsh, over sand and stones.  A lagoon behind the embankment had reeds, sea club-rush, true fox sedge, a hybrid between triangular and grey clubrush, western sea-lavender and coots.  We also saw Cetti’s warbler.  There was an extensive wasteland adjacent to an industrial estate and this also had many plants.  Part of the saltmarsh known as Isley is a nature reserve and there we saw shelduck and great egret.
      We then encountered the Tarka Trail (after Williamson’s Tarka the Otter, set along rivers in this region), where the coast path combines with a cycle trail.  We walked back a hundred metres to where we had seen a cycle-hire firm in the industrial estate and decided to hire bicycles to take us along the rest of the estuary to Barnstaple, the bridge over the Taw, and on to Braunton, as it might have been rather dull walking a cycle path.  The route follows an abandoned railway.  After a few fields of cultivated flax our ride was dominated by saltmarsh with black-headed gulls, shelduck, immature herring gulls, oystercatchers, mute swans, curlew and Canada geese.  We crossed a bridge over the side-stream of Fremington Pill where there was a sculpture commemorating the National Cycle Network.  At Barnstaple we had to negotiate busy streets and traffic before regaining the cycle-path on the other side of the estuary, past an industrial estate and very smelly sewage works.  We had lunch on a sea-wall overlooking a host of Canada geese that gradually increased from 39 to 92.  We turned back on reaching the car-park just south of Braunton.  Walking has hardened up our soles, but we were rather sore elsewhere after all day on saddles!
Great egret
 
Hybrid clubrush
 

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